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January 26th, 2012 | Argentina

Hola Buenos Aires…!!

The first leg of my South American Tour is done and dusted…!!

Ushuaia to Buenos Aires in three and a half days…!! It’s been a long and hard ride, and not the most comfortable one, considering that I am on a shock absorber that gave up the ghost in Laos…!! I re-fitted my old BMW shock in Ushuaia, after my Ohlin’s rear shock said “Hozwzit…!!” for the third time on the GBWT…!!

My back has taken a pounding…!!

La Primera Ruta se completa....!!

I have tomorrow and Saturday to sort out shock absorbers, a place to leave the Big Fella for a few weeks, and a host of other little odds and sods to take care of, before I hop on a plane and fly to….. Somewhere up north, I believe….!!

I have many updates to post, and they will keep rolling in over the next week or so… While I am dodging coconuts, and battling the harsh Caribbean climate…!!

GB in B.A.

P.S. Big Happy Birthday to my sister back in Jozi…!! Today’s ride was for you…!!

and…

P.S. I love you…!!

 

January 25th, 2012 | Argentina

VERY Big Day at the Office….!!

today, after 1125 km and 14 hours in the saddle, I have reached Baia Blanco, just 700 km shy of Buenos Aires… I have ridden just on 2600 km in the past three days… (Big Boys make Big Rides….!! Ha…!!)

I left Commodoro Rivadavia at 7.00am this morning, and arrived here at 9.00pm this evening… Needless to say there was no mucking about today…!!

I stopped four times to refuel, three official and once when the Big Fella spluttered and died on me…again…!! Bad habit he has developed…!!

Tomorrow I head for BA via Ruta 3, and complete the ride from where it begins at Fin del Mundo, and ends in Buenos Aires, all 3100 km of it…!!

I have to hand my two busted shock absorbers in to be serviced on Friday, and this is the only day when the guy sorting this problem out for me, is available…!! Hence the “need for speed” over the past few days…!!

One more ride to Buenos Aires...!! Then methinks I might take a little break on a Caribbean Island....!! Any suggestions...??

Updates to follow, once a little of the fatigue has drained away….!! Lets say in about two weeks, shall we…??

GB

Baia Blanco, Argentina.

January 23rd, 2012 | Argentina

Northbound…!!

Left Ushuaia this morning, and started out on the road to Dead Horse, Alaska….!! And a few points in between…!!

It took ten hours and four border crossings to ride the 585 km to Rio Gallegos on the Atlantic coast of Argentina… The wind is doing it’s best to give me a “fond farewell”…

Heading North..

Tomorrow’s goal : Commodoro Rivadavia… 800 km up Ruta 3…

GB.

Rio Gallegos, Argentina

January 20th, 2012 | Argentina

Scroll down for updates….

January 22nd…. Things are looking up…!! Got my laptop back late last night, and can now continue bringing the site up to date…!! I have lost many of the programs I had, including Mapsource, my means of navigating around the world…!! Will my “Man from Morocco” come good once again….?? (GB to Khalid…  Take two patience pills and call me in the morning…!!

Leaving for Buenos Aires tomorrow, a four to five day ride depending on the wind… Then I begin the process of sourcing and repairing shock absorbers…

GB

Scroll down to see….

12. Punching thru wind to Punta Arenas… Posted….

13. The Ride to Ushuaia…

14. The End of the World…

15. Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap…

GB

Fin del Mundo

 

January 15th, 2012 | Argentina

The Ride to Ushuaia…

Our ferry was due to leave Punta Arenas at 9.30am, and we still had to buy our tickets…!!

Roberto and Carl join me for breakfast...

Carl seems well pleased that we got onto the ferry without slipping on the deck plates...

If we missed this ferry, the next one was due two days later, and spending another a few days in Punta Arenas was not an option we were willing to consider…!!

Our bikes were ready and loaded before breakfast, and after wolfing down the usual coffee and “sweetbreads” we left the Hostal Ainil, and refueled at the service station around the corner… The next fuel station was on the Atlantic coast, over 225 km away, at Rio Grande…

We bought our tickets while the cars and trucks who were already lined up on the dockside when we got there, began driving onto the ferry…

We rode our bikes up onto the slippery deck and were instructed to park them at the very back of the barge… It was going to be a case of last on, last off for us…!!

We hoped our ferry, would not end up in the same position as this fishing vessel...!!

By a quirk of fate, I would be making my last ride to Ushuaia in the company of Roberto from Mexico, and Carl from the United States... We lined up on the upper deck of the ferry for a quick photo-shoot... Roberto was feeling the cold more than most...!!

Carolina Guzman and her daughters kept us company on the ferry ride to Porvenir...

We were joined on the upper deck by Carolina and her daughters, and we chatted amongst ourselves for the duration of the two hour voyage across the Straits of Magellan, to Porvenir…

The first part of the crossing was made on flat seas, and then things got a bit more interesting… The ferry ploughed into rougher waters in the middle of the channel and began heaving it’s way over the swells…

It had been cold to begin with, and we were all wrapped up against the elements… Then as we neared Terra del Fuego, the island that is shared by both Chile and Argentina, it began to snow…!! The flakes drifted down around us, melting as soon as they landed on the deck….

The little flurry did not last long, but certainly had us wondering exactly what lay ahead of us on the ride across to the Atlantic Coast…

A large contingent of Chilean soldiers had made the trip over with us, and when we landed, they gathered their kit and set off into the hinterland… I think they were out on some kind of military exercise….or planning to take back the part of the island that had been given to Argentina by the Pope, many hundreds of years ago…!!

We rode into Porvenir, a run down little fishing village, with old buildings and very little to recommend it by… We found the correct road that would lead us directly east across Terra del Fuego, and set out to do battle with the ripio… We had 160 km of dirt road to cover, across one of the most inhospitable parts of the southern tip of the continent…

Windswept, cold and bleak... And to make things worse, it began to rain...!!

The first half hour, was probably the most uncomfortable part of the ride across to the Chilean border… It drizzled for awhile, and I was sure it was going to snow at some point… It was quite cold too, and a wind was blowing off the sea and across the road…

Once we had cleared the narrow coast road that afforded some spectacular views, and began inching our way inland, the weather improved dramatically… No more rain, and just a light wind that blew off the sea… The sun even came out at times to help us choose the right lines on the gravel roads…

January 15th, 2012 | Argentina

Let the record reflect….

…that at 8.15 pm, today the 15th of January 2012, a determined man, and his eager machine, reached “Fin del Mundo”, The End of the World…!!

USHUAIA…!!

Yet another dream realised, another milestone reached on the Gypsy Biker World Tour…!!

We've made it...!! The Gypsy Biker and the Big Fella, a proud moment for both...!!

This one will be remembered for the adverse weather conditions we faced today, the new friends I made; Carl from Virgina, U.S.A., and Roberto from Mexico, whose bike broke down at the Chilean border, and had to be taken back to Punta Arenas…

He was just 303 km from the end of his journey which began in Mexico… I hope he gets his Dakar F650 sorted soon and makes another attempt to get to Ushuaia… You can’t turn back now, Roberto…!!

I too faced mechanical problems… My rear shock burst it’s seals, and the puncture we repaired last week came back to haunt me…

The day was also tinged with tragedy… Carl and I came upon  an accident that had happened perhaps an hour before we got there… The ambulances had passed us only minutes before, riding slowly towards us on the 150 km of gravel road that runs from Pornevir in Chile, to San Sebastian in Argentina…

The Patagonian ripio had claimed two more lives today…

It’s been a day to remember…

GB

Ushuaia, Argentina.